secret ingredient

I started college during Summer term back in 2002, about a week after I graduated from high school. That very first semester in college, I had a roommate from Mexico. She was one of the kindest, most sincerely generous people I've ever met. There were 6 of us girls in the same apartment, and she was basically our mommy. And she showed her love through food. That was one thing I loved about her. Not only because I got to eat that delicious food, but because she really put so much of herself into it. She had such a passion for the food and for the people she was serving it to. And whenever people talk about love being the secret ingredient in good food, I think of Alejandra. She did just that.

She inspired my obsession with cilantro, admittedly and ingredient I had never used before I met her. I'd eaten it, but definitely had never purchased it. And now, I can't live without it. I grow it in my garden, and still have to buy more at the store by mid-Summer. And thanks to her, I can make a mean salsa. Still somehow not as good as when she made it, but it's still pretty darn good. And I always have to credit her.

I've made a few alterations since, and let me tell you why. It's not out of disrespect, I promise. They are by no means improvements, just alterations. That's the beauty of this recipe. It's SO versatile. She always made it with avocados, but they can very easily be omitted for a simple fresh salsa. My sister once added fresh sautéed corn and black beans, and it was AMAZING.

 But then, several years after I lost touch with Alejandra, the choir I was a part of got to travel to San Antonio, Texas. The heart of Tex Mex. I know, I know, I shouldn't mix the two. Alejandra made Mexican food, Tex Mex is it's own beautiful thing. And mixing Asian food is so not my thing, so I realize I'm being a complete hypocrite. But when you learn what I learned, I think you'll forgive me. My friend who is a total foodie and also a member of my choir went to a restaurant that I missed out on. He said their salsa was just like mine, but added the juice of 1/4 of an orange to it also. I was so curious that I had to try it. And there was no turning back. That tiny bit of sweet acidity added to the lime is a miracle!

And so, out of respect for Alejandra, there is no substitute for her secret ingredient, but I found one that made me feel a little closer to the perfect flavor she got out of her ingredients.

basic secret ingredient salsa

juice of 1~2 limes, depending on acidity and juiciness of the limes
juice of 1/4 navel orange, again depending on the juiciness of that particular orange
2 lbs sweet, quality tomatoes, diced (this time I used a combination of red and yellow cherry tomatoes)
1 bunch cilantro, chopped very fine
1/2 vidalia onion, diced small (or for color I'll use a red onion. But make sure you chop it ahead and soak it in cold water, replacing the water 2~3 times, for at least 30 minutes, to remove that pungent raw onion flavor)
kosher salt to taste

1. combine all ingredients into bowl. Season with salt to taste.

variation additions:
1 can black beans, drained and rinsed
1 1/2 cups fresh sauteed corn
2~3 large hass avocadoes, diced

plain and simple

My mom often says, "simple is best." And as a teenager, I remember being a little annoyed with her mantras that she would enthusiastically repeat, but this one I agree with.

And though when it comes to my kitchen equipment addiction I may not be the poster child of simplicity, when it comes to the cooking itself, I try to emulate this idea. I really believe in appreciating the flavors of each ingredient. I had a new friend over for dinner tonight, and she paid me the highest compliment I've ever received--or desired to receive. She took a bite and said she's never eaten spaghetti and meatballs with so much flavor. Now, I promise you I don't have the best spaghetti and meatballs recipe out there. No way I can out-cook a real Italian grandma. Not even close. But she got exactly what my passion for food is all about. Flavor. REAL flavor. And it was really exciting to have someone get my food philosophy in one bite.

So I was inspired to share with you my absolute favorite way to cook asparagus. It makes the asparagus taste like ... asparagus! No hiding or altering or adding. I want to highlight that grassy, earthy, almost bitter but somehow sweet, complex flavor that only asparagus has. And I think the best way to do that is by roasting it. And the ingredient list is short. Asparagus, good quality olive oil, salt and pepper. And if you've never tried it, it'll change your life.

Roasted Asparagus

2 1/2 lbs fresh asparagus
2 tablespoons good quality olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
2. Hold one spear of asparagus by the end and about the middle and bend it until it snaps. Cut all spears about the length that it naturally broke at. Peel the bottom inch or so.
3. Place the trimmed and peeled asparagus spears on a rimmed baking sheet in a single layer. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss to coat. Place in the preheated oven and bake for about 15 minutes, until tips are crisp and stalks are browned. Serve warm.

makes me so happy

The farmer's market here in Bloomington, IN is in full bloom now, and I might be the happiest person. I look forward to Saturday mornings. I always go to the same guy in the back corner that sells the best shiitake mushrooms I've ever tasted (outside of Japan, of course;)), and then as a family we paruse the beautiful colors and smells and buy what inspires us. My kids always ask for some peaches, and how can I deny them? This week, I bought these gorgeous string beans, purple and green.

I've made hoisin string beans, and plain old blanched beans with garlic butter. My 2 favorite ways to eat them.

My own garden is actually growing this year, too! I have heirloom beefsteak tomatoes that are till green, but getting bigger and more asymmetrical everyday, and I can't wait to make some big, fat sandwiches with on some crusty bread with plenty of Japanese mayo. And tonight, I used my own home grown rosemary, parsely, and basil in spaghetti and meatballs.

I love Summer. All of this produce is so inspiring! What's your favorite fresh vegetable or fruit to eat and cook with in the Summer?

japanese series part 2

As promised, I'm writing about Japanese food again. And since I started with the basic dashi, we're going to make the dish I use dashi for the most, miso shiru--or miso soup. There are so many ways you can alter this soup, but the basic of the basic miso soup has 5 ingredients: dashi, miso, scallions, wakame, and tofu.

Don't let the exotic ingredient list scare you too much. Dashi you know how to make, miso is easy to find in the refrigerated section of any Asian market, and tofu you can find at any grocery store these days. Though I do prefer the silken tofu (House is my favorite brand you can buy in the US) you find at Asian markets to the kind you can buy at grocery stores. And I'm not saying that to be snobby. It really is just my personal preference. But when I'm too lazy to make my own tofu or to head to the Asian market, medium or firm tofu at the grocery store works great.

miso

Miso is a prepared soy bean paste. It's earthy and salty, and when diluted in dashi, makes ... heaven. It's rich and light at the same time. I don't know how else to explain it. It comes in a variety of styles, but the most common are red and white. And you can buy them mixed together, which I find more versitile. But it's personal preference so get whichever you like and fits into your budget and palate.

Miso wasn't a flavor I was fond of as a kid. I know, you're thinking I'm so not Japanese, right? I've learned to love it as an adult, and I rarely go a week without it. It's my favorite.

wakame

Wakame is a specific type of seaweed. It's sold dried, sometimes in long strands and sometimes cut. I prefer the cut kind. I just reconstitute it right in the serving bowl. It happens really fast, so it's just easier for me that way. If you let it sit too long in liquid it can get slimy, which is probably what most people who don't like it have experieneced. When newly reconstituted, it's slippery but not slimy, and tastes like the ocean. A clean ocean. Not a stinky, fishy-smelling one.

This might be the hardest ingredient for you to find. It's with all of the other seaweeds, and you might just have to ask for help or go to an online source. If seaweed isn't your thing (though eventually I think you should give it a shot), substitute baby spinach.

miso soup
serves 4

1/4 block of tofu, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
2 teaspoons dried, cut wakame
2 scallions, sliced very thin
6 cups dashi
1.5 tablespoons red or white miso (or a combination of both)

1. In a small sauce pan, heat the dashi. Add the miso, and stir in to combine until completely dissolved. Add the tofu just to heat it through.
2. In the small serving bowls, equally distribute the wakame. Pour the hot miso broth over the wakame, and equally distribute the tofu. Garnish with the scallion. Serve hot along side rice.

creamy goodness

Recently for a lunch group I'm a part of, our theme was appetizers. On the morning of, I couldn't think of what to bring, but I had lots of bread dough, whole milk, and heavy cream in the fridge. So I made baguettes into crostini and home made ricotta cheese. It was really good, but definitely an indulgence. I sure felt it on my hips the next day.

 Remember when curdling the cheese to use an acid with light color and one that you like the flavor of. Your cheese will take on the flavor of the acid a little bit. I used a combination of white balsamic vinegar and lemon juice.

 True ricotta cheese is traditionally made from the leftover whey of other cheeses, in an effort to not waste it. Unfortunatley, though, this whey has to be used within an hour or so of making the other cheese, so unless you often make your own parmesan, you're probably not going to have any fresh whey on hand. Making it with milk and cream is a wonderful alternative, and results in a very creamy ricotta.

Homemade ricotta cheese
makes about 2 cups

5 cups whole milk
1 cups heavy cream
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup lemon juice, white wine vinegar, white balsamic vinegar, or other light colored acid that you like

1. Set a large sieve or colander over a large bowl or clean food grade bucket. Dampen a large sheet of cheesecloth or butter muslin and lay it evenly in the colander.
2. In a large stainless steel or enameled cast iron pot, combine the milk, cream, and salt. Bring the mixture to a boil and take off of the heat. Immediately add the acid and gently give it a stir. Allow the mixture to sit for about 1 minute to curdle.
3. Carefully pour the mixture into the cheesecloth-lined colander. Let it drain for about 30 minutes. The longer you let it drain, the thicker the ricotta will be. Store in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

*if you want to make a lower fat version, I don't recommend using less than 2% milk. Even the 2% milk ricotta won't make a creamy, smooth cheese. It will be much more rubbery, and you won't want to strain it as long because the curds and whey will separate immediately. So, the first time you try it, stick with this recipe and alter as you get used to it.

crostini
makes about 24 crostini

1 baguette
1~2 cloves garlic
extra virgin olive oil
salt *optional

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Slice the baguettes 1/2 inch thick at a diagonal. Lay them in a single layer on a large rimmed baking sheet. Brush lightly with olive oil. Bake in the oven until crisp, about 8~10 minutes, flipping them over once during baking.
2. Rub each slice with the garlic clove and sprinkle lightly with salt, if using. Serve with bruschetta, cheese, tapenade, or any other savory spread or topping. These can be served warm or at room temperature. If not using immediately, let cool completely and put them in an airtight bag. Use withing 2 days.

let's start with the basics

I've had a lot of people ask me about Japanese food lately. And I wish I could have all of you meet my family in Japan. It'll change your life. Healthy food is their cultural lifestyle, not something they're deliberately doing. And guess what! It's delicious! So I want to do a series for you. And we're starting with the basic of basics in Japanese cooking. Dashi. (pronounced "dah-shee" ... sort of. That's the best I can do without actually saying it for you)

 Dashi is a Japanese stock made with dried bonito flakes, kombu kelp, and water. And really, don't let the ingredient list scare you. You can find these ingredients really easily in any Asian market, and I promise they aren't fishy or scary or as unappetizing as you might think. In fact, the term "umami" was created because of this very basic Japanese dish. It was delicious enough to earn a 5th taste:)

I use dashi as a base for soup or just to simmer something in--every time we have Japanese food for dinner. So I thought it was a good place to start.

There are 2 stages of dashi you can get out of one set of ingredients. You can make the "first" dashi, which is more pure and has the best flavor. I set that aside for more delicate dishes like clear soups and simple simmered dishes that rely heavily on the clean flavor of the dashi. The "second" dashi is when you use the same amount of water with the already used, strained bonito flakes and kombu. This is what I use for miso soup and less delicate dishes.

basic dashi
makes about 4 cups (8 cups if you make second dashi)

4 1/2 cups water (another 4 1/2 cups for second dashi)

2 cups dried bonito flakes

1 4x4 inch (or smaller, if you like a lighter flavor) sheet of kombu

1. for first dashi: Fill a medium saucepan with 4 1/2 cups water. Add the kombu. (do not wipe off or rinse off the white powder, this is where all the extra nutrition is!) Heat over high heat until the water almost reaches a boil. remove the kombu and add the bonito flakes. Bring the liquid to a boil and immediately strain the bonito flakes with a fine mesh sieve. Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 days, or freeze in small portions.
2. for second dashi: Add the bonito flakes and kombu back into the saucepan. Add 4 1/2 cups water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and let simmer for 10 minutes. Strain and discard the solids. Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 days or freeze in small portions.

to health

The mister and I have been talking a lot about health lately. We've made a lot of changes to our lifestyle in the few years we've been married, which I think have improved our health a lot, but we can definitely do better. I often make a 100% whole grain brown rice loaf from the sequel to my favorite bread book, because it really is delicious and you feel so good eating it. I had some dough and a bunch of produce in my fridge, so I decided to make a fresh, light, healthy pizza. And it was awesome! The dough crisped up just right, and the veggies charred just right in the super hot oven. And I felt good eating it. And the best part was that it was delicious. What's the point in healthy food if it isn't good to eat, right? I loved that you could see everything that was on there. Of course with my almost 3 year old, it meant she could pick off what she didn't want, but she actually ate most of it because I let her help me put the toppings on.

It was so tasty, in fact, that I invited my health-foodie friend Melissa over for lunch a few days later and made it again. We had a lot of fun changing up flavors and textures. I'm in love.

I used pecorino romano cheese because you get so much flavor in just a little bit, and since I was going for a healthy pizza, I didn't want to be weighed down by cheese.

For longer cooking vegetables like eggplant and super water-logged vegetables like mushrooms, please take the time the sauté them ahead of time. (I used Japanese eggplant and plain old white button mushrooms, but any eggplant or mushroom varieties would be delicious!) Otherwise your eggplant will be spongy instead of buttery, and your mushrooms will release a puddle of water on top of your pizza. And when sautéeing mushrooms, do it in batches. There should always be enough room for the mushroom slices to be in a single layer in your pan or they will not brown, they will steam. And you want a little caramelization. Mmmm.

Please keep in mind that this is a VERY flexible recipe. Whatever looks good at your farmer's market or local grocer's produce section is what you should use. If your shallots are smushy but the red onions are firm and glossy and perfect, go with the onions. If the spinach is wilty but the arugula looks perky, go with the arugula! Or skip it all together. Pick what looks fresh and entices you. And have fun doing it.

Weeknight healthy pizza
makes 2 10~12 inch pizzas

 1/2 lb fresh whole wheat pizza dough (if you need ideas on where to go for a good pizza dough recipe, email me. I will hook you up)

1 Japanese eggplant (or 1/3 medium globe eggplant), diced small and sautéed
4 ounced white button mushrooms, sliced and sautéed until golden brown
1 bunch broccoli rabe or broccoli, trimmed, (in the case of broccoli, stems removed), and sautéed lighty, if desired
handful of baby spinach leaves, torn into little pieces
2 shallots, sliced VERY thin
1/4 c pecorino romano cheese, grated
10~15 cherry (or grape) tomatoes,  cut in half
2~3 small sweet tomatoes, sliced thin and pulp and seeds removed
any other veggies you like:)
garlic infused olive oil
fresh herbs such as parsley and basil

for the sauce:
10~12 sweet tomatoes, quartered
2 cloves garlic, grated or minced
1 tablespoon olive oil
salt to taste

1. Heat a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the olive oil and garlic for the sauce, and cook until garlic is fragrant. Add tomatoes. Cook, stirring often until tomatoes break down and thicken. Add salt to taste. Set aside.
2. Preheat the oven (with a pizza stone or upside down cookie sheet) to 500°F. Cut the pizza dough in half and roll out as thin as you can without tearing. Place gently on a pizza peel prepared with cornmeal. Spread on about 3 tablespoons of the tomato sauce, sprinkle about 2 tablespoons of cheese, then add whatever vegetables you like. Add tomatoes and shallots last to ensure good caramelization. Quickly slide pizza off of the pizza peel onto the stone and bake for about 10 minutes, or when crust is crisp and vegetables are browned. Add fresh herbs. Repeat with second pizza. Let cool slightly before serving.